“I find that alcohol, taken in sufficient quantities, may produce all the effects of drunkenness.” (Oscar Wilde)
Sprawled on my Chesterfield, a glass of tawny port in hand, I couldn’t agree more. For those of you who haven’t seen his biography, “Wilde” is a decent film. Whilst my wife, and no doubt Stephen Fry, enjoyed extensive footage of Bosie’s (Jude Law’s) bottom, I was captivated by the wardrobe.
In a recent article I declared “The Dandy is back,” but compared to the Victorians, we’re lightweights.
Velvet smoking jackets, silk brocaded dressing gowns with quilted shawl lapels, gold pocket-watches, jewel-encrusted tie pins, cravats, double breasted vests and top hats and straw boaters were paraded before me.
I particularly liked this blazer with matching vest.
Checks are everywhere at the moment. I recently made this jacket in a Super 130’s Merino wool blended with Mongolian cashmere. With its purple velvet collar and flashes of purple silk behind the working cuffs, I think it gives the former a run for its money.
It’s been a great month here at Michelsberg HQ.
This Saturday, a friend and customer (Paul Dunphy) dropped me a line to say he had just been voted Best Dressed Man at York Races and here he is pictured below with Jeff Banks (remember The Clothes Show?:-).
As my Facebook Page shows, I’ve been very busy delivering lot’s of new threads to happy customers including a few “Uber Levels.”
The ‘Uber’ is our very top-level of construction. I’ve gone into the nitty-gritty in a previous blog but basically it’s as good as tailoring gets.
The button hole above has been sewn by hand in silk twist – it’s slightly longer than a machined button hole and has that rather charming hand-made look about it.
If you look at the picture below, you can see small dints in the fabric where the canvas in the lapels has been pad stitched onto the cloth by hand to achieve a wonderful roll.
And check out the chain-stitch which makes up the flower-loop. Sweet.
Best of all, it’s got my name in it, beautifully cross stitched by hand.
These are the hallmarks of a truly artisan workshop, craftsmanship at its finest and it gives me a huge buzz to be able to offer it to my customers.
The dream has always been to be able to stand shoulder to shoulder with the best tailoring houses in the world and with ‘The Uber’ in my armoury, I’ve got one hell of a pair of Cuban heels to raise me up to their lofty heights.
There’s much for me to look forward to – at the end of this week I’m heading off to Devon for a holiday in search of cider, surf and sunshine. Can’t wait!
Then, when I get back, I’m throwing a party for friends, customers and suppliers here in the Victoria Quarter, on Thursday 20th September from 6pm.
If it’s anything like my opening bash, things could get a bit messy and as Friday morning rears its throbbing head, let’s remember Oscar when he said, “Work is the curse of the drinking classes.”