Mooning in Guiseley

This month, I’ve brought to fruition a project that’s been dancing about in my mind, since clearing out my winter wardrobe.

I love the texture and drape of tweed, and it was with a sigh that I bagged up my heavy Donegal & Shetland wool jackets, to make room for the wool, silk and linen numbers for Spring.

My existing 14 to 18 ounce tweed numbers are all very British, with padded roped shoulders, horse-hair canvas in the chest and fully lined. They are perfect for keeping out the chill on a breezy Autumn stroll in God’s county, but feel like an oven if the sun’s on your back in Summer. Read More

The Peacock is dead. Long live the Peacock.

In this months ‘Rake Magazine’, their editor and founder, Wei Koh, heralded “a new era in sartorialism. The peacock is dead, replaced by a concern for purity and restraint.”

He writes with fluency and passion, and brought a smile to my face, as he poked fun at the foppish, flâneurs who descend on Pitti Uomo, the menswear show in Florence, to flounce about in their finest.

I’ve had first hand experience of the above, and the spectacle of thousands of over-caffeinated boulevardiers, braying and kissing in a whirling dervish of hats, suits, silk scarves and sunglasses is something to behold. Read More

Fantastic Mr Fox

I will always adore the swagger and sleek lines of a jacket with full chest, roped shoulders and nipped in waist.

That said, I can appreciate my Melbourne based brother Edward’s penchant for the softer, more informal approach to tailoring, that is very much in vogue at the moment.

I’ve just delivered this ‘de-constructed’ jacket to my customer Simon, for Ebor day at York races.

Simon Price

Unlined, with no shoulder pads, no canvas, no interlining, it’s basically a tailored cardigan, made up in a cloth from one of my favourite mills in the country – Fox Flannel of Somerset. Read More

“Something for Wimbledon, Sir?”

Greetings!

Hope you’ve had a cracking festive break and have made a good start to 2016!

Winter is upon us, and whilst the radiators of Michelsberg HQ do battle with the joys of a cruel Leeds wind, our thoughts lie ahead to sunnier climes.

Crazy as it sounds, it is now, as we scrape Jack Frost from our windscreens, the perfect time to start thinking about our Spring / Summer wardrobes.

This week, we’ve had two of the biggest cloth companies giving us pre-launch showcases of their wares for next season. Read More

How Are Your Sales?

“You can’t build a business. You build people. People build a business.”

These wise words are from a chap by the name of Mr Spencer Hays – a legend in the world of textiles and tailoring.

Raised by his Mother and Grandmother, he started out in life as a shoe-shine boy in Oklahoma.

His first break was winning a basketball scholarship to University and it was from here that he was recruited by Southwestern Company to sell books, primarily bibles. Read More

Power Cords

Happy New Year my friends – may it be a fabulous one for us all!

I’m slowly getting back to my fighting weight, after what has been a particularly sinful Christmas, and am delighted to report that business has got off to a cracking start.

There’s a real Seventies vibe going on at the moment, with bold checks, wide lapels and deep collared shirts increasingly featuring in the armoury of my victims.

Charlie Anderson cordMy apprentice, Mr Anderson, has fully embraced this nod to the days of helmet-hair and flashing dance-floors, with the addition to his wardrobe of this plush, burgundy corduroy suit. Read More

Every Cloud…

“Beauty is only skin deep, it’s what’s underneath that counts.”

Wise words, particularly when it comes to bespoke suits. A beautiful cloth on the surface is nothing without quality scaffolding underneath.

I’ve mentioned in a previous blog about the construction of our suits, both the “British Bespoke” (half canvas) and “Uber-Level” (full canvas).

They incorporate a number of layers, or, interlinings, (body canvas, chest canvas, domette, fusing) which are sewn together by hand, or, machined, to give the cloth shape and create a soft armour with which to flatter the wearer’s body. Read More

Wool Week

Last week was “Wool Week.”

Run by The Campaign for Wool since 2010, it’s an international salute to the mighty sheep, on behalf of woolgrowers, fashion designers, retailers, artisans and shifty looking Welshmen.

Patronised by The Prince of Wales, it’s a PR platform to extol the virtues of a fibre that is sustainable, bio-degradable, non allergenic, with fabulous insulation properties.

Events have been run up and down the country and here I am in front of the warping beams at Glendale Mills in Huddersfield. Read More

Dugdale Bros & Co

Farewell sweet Summer – you’ve been a joy. This year we’ve been spoilt rotten, but gin and tonics must now give way to a warming brandy, as the cold, hard barrels of Autumn and Winter swing in our direction.

Now is the time for log fires, pastry and mash and breaking out the winter wardrobe.

Respect to Chris, one of my customers, who had the foresight to order this little beauty in August.

It’s a ‘covert coat’ which gets it’s name from the hardwearing ‘covert’ cloth from which it is made – a process which involves the twisting together of two threads of a similar colour (usually in faun or green) which results in a durable fabric with a slightly mottled finish. Read More

An Englishman abroad

In a past life, I’m convinced I was one of the sun-worshipping Inca tribe down in Peru.

God bless those healing rays and everything they stand for. Blue skies, short skirts, the crackle of Hendricks gin on ice and the whiff of Hawaiian tropic. Magical.

Earlier on this month I was having it large in Ibiza, to celebrate my friend Flynny’s fortieth birthday. Staying at the Destino Hotel, with big nights on the agenda, it was going to be a glamorous affair, leaving me with the question, what to wear? Read More